Those headlights...they are WAY better than the stock ones in both appearance and performance. I spent far too much importing a set from Germany for mine but was never sorry I did. Going back to the old lighting will require wiring changes back to stock. Those don't hurt the value; they increase it. The trunk struts are easy to replace and should still be available new. Common failure item. Problems with the windows not going up the whole way or smoothly are usually the window guide felts going bad. I wrote a how-to on replacement: Coupe window tracks and regulators The oem strips may be discontinued and hard to get now, but if you don't do something with them you'll ruin the window regulators; the cables will break, and the only way to fix those is buy a complete, expensive assembly. The broken center dash vent is also common. They are a PITA to get out. They have a foam seal around them that warrants considering a new replacement vs used. Engine under tray right side...not sure they had one. CGT's didn't. Sloppy shifters are usually worn out bushings. They CAN be bought separately but the dealer will tell you they only have assemblies. If you can read the part numbers on the old ones you can order them. Door pockets: always break. They are plastic junk and I elected to just take them off instead of constantly fighting with them and epoxy trying to keep them from getting worse. The a/c system used a crappy old York piston compressor that was heavy and inefficient. I replaced my system with a radial setup from an Audi 90. Had to have some hoses custom fabbed but it worked great. Originality on these cars doesn't really matter that much provided the changes are an improvement over a design or age shortcoming. People buy these for the performance more than to just stare at. Loved my CGT but ultimately it didn't have enough power nor the potential to make more without a turbo swap, and there's no sense swapping in a turbo to a fwd open diff car. If I had it to do again, I'd buy a Ur-q with a 5000 engine swap (for reliability and cheaper parts) and run the snot out of it.
I've been trying to track down a fuel smell for some time now. It was often there but seemed to be worse with the windows open and after taking some corners, particularly left handers. It was worse the more fuel was in the tank too, I think. Initially I suspected the long breather pipe that goes from roughly the middle of the tank to the filler neck. The original one was very soft so I thought it might be sweating if not actually leaking. I replaced it with a bit of basic hose temporarily and thought it made a bit of a difference but later realised that might have been wishful thinking. I may yet put the original hose back on.
porsche 944 s window regulator zip
When I initially test drove the car the passenger side window stopped working. Well, not completely. It would just go down a couple of inches, make a horrible grinding noise and stop. Fortunately it decided to go back up so I bought the car anyway. So I finally got a chance to get inside the door motivated by the increasing temperatures and lack of air conditioning in the car. Door card came off easily once I located all the screws and clips (didn't break any either :) )
I was happy to find that the wire that pulls the window mechanism had come derailed from the bottom pulley and with a bit of effort I managed to get it back on there. It works now but does make some funny noises sometimes. The same noises the driver's side makes so I figured they are factory. Job done!
I also had some issues with the driver's window. It wouldn't go back up a few times. I had had this happen once before but disproved it later when it slid up nice and smooth but this time it definately needed some assistance. I've since figured out that it only does this if it's raining or I've jsut washed the car. Seems as if the guides are a little loose so the window can wobble in them and if it's wet stick. Are the guides adjustable or do you have to replace them? I did try to have a look in the door but failed at the first hurdle: I couldn't get the door handle off the door card! Oh, the screws came out OK but I couldn't figure out how to disconnect the wires from the power mirror switch in the handle. I couldn't even create enough slack to rotate and release the top mount so I could see the connector so was doing it blind. Any trcks here or can anyone tell me how it comes apart?
Why do I have two heated window switches? Neither of which seem to do anything anyway. The top one even feels broken as it does not flip on or off positively. Why two and what do they do? Are they readily available and easy to replace?
I had a go at my over-abundance of heated rear window switches too. I loosened the bezel but it wouldn't come off without removing the steering wheel and indicator stalks. Fortunately I still had enough room to pry out the switches and blank and this is what I found taped up: 2ff7e9595c
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